Trastevere means "across the Tiber" and is away from the main tourist sights on the western bank. This is the place where you find locals outnumber tourists, with old, dark churches around the corner and crumbling buildings beside them. To get there, you can cross the oldest bridge in Rome, Ponte Fabricio.
Before actually arriving in Trastevere, you will pass an island in the middle of the Tiber. San Bartolomeo on Isola Tiburtina was built in the 10th century but what you see today has been heavily renovated since.
Santa Cecilia in Trastevere is believed to have been built on Saint Cecilia's palace. She was a wealthy aristocrat and became a symbol of the church's struggle. She was condemned to death for her religion and died around the 4th century.
San Crisogono's history goes back to the 4th century but the church was rebuilt in the 12th and 17th centuries. The Romanesque bell tower dates from the 12th.
Santa Maria in Trastevere was originally built in the 4th century but additions and renovations were made subsequently. Legend has it that a fountain of oil sprung up here when Jesus was born. The mosaics inside have been restored but originally date from the 13th century.
After a long walk sightseeing churches and tasting gelato, the ultimate prize is the sunset view at Piazzale Garibaldi. The climb up is not too strenuous although you can also hop on a bus that doesn't come often.
